DEMO — fictional range. Local brief only, NOT SENT. No personal data is collected or transmitted.
FINISH
A finish is applied to a garment that has already been made.
Dyeing, washing and softening all change the garment after it is sewn, and each of them moves the measurements. The finish and the grade have to be decided together.
- Piece dyed
- Dyed as fabric · even colour, and the shrinkage is known before cutting
- Garment dyed
- Dyed after making · softer handle, and the garment shrinks unpredictably
- Garment washed
- Washed after making · a worn handle, and a deliberate size change
- Enzyme washed
- A softer surface on cotton · removes some fibre, so the fabric thins
- Mercerised
- Cotton treated for sheen and strength · less shrinkage, higher cost
- Peached
- A brushed surface · soft, and it pills more readily
Illustrative finish reference
| Finish | Typical use | What it changes |
|---|---|---|
| Piece dyed | Ranges with a strict grade | Nothing after cutting |
| Garment dyed | Soft, casual ranges | Size, unpredictably |
| Garment washed | Denim and heavy knits | Size and handle, deliberately |
| Enzyme washed | Soft cotton | Fabric weight and strength |
Why garment dyeing fights the grade.
Because the garment shrinks after it has been cut to size. The allowance has to be measured for that specific finish, and it varies with the batch, which is why a garment-dyed range has a wider tolerance.
The one worth avoiding.
Enzyme washing a light fabric to soften it. The process removes fibre, and a light fabric has little to spare, so it thins where it is stressed.